Gourmet Burgers

By Gretchen Kurz and Anne Valdespino, photographs by Beverly Poppe

From Dana Point to Seal Beach, what once was just patty in a bun is now grilled Kobe beef, slathered with designer mayo, topped with Gruyere cheese, and smothered with caramelized onions. The humble hamburger has gone gourmet.

With so many new takes on this all-American standard, how to find the best? Here are our 10 local favorites, along with a primer on Kobe beef, and a salute to six favorite low-falutin’ burgers—the classics of our youth. So dig in with both hands, and don’t forget extra napkins.

A RESTAURANT
The art of the burger is the whole rationale behind 25 Degrees, the trendy West Hollywood burger bar by Tim and Liza Goodell. With the opening of their A Restaurant here in Orange County, we can taste what the fuss is all about. Hiding out on its menu of American classics, the A Burger ($14) is the low-budget darling. A brawny blend of premium natural sirloin and chuck is ground to Tim’s specs, then grilled precisely to order before rigging with bacon, arugula, and artisan gorgonzola. It arrives on a shiny, buttery brioche bun, slicked with just enough thousand-island dressing to trigger childhood memories.
3334 W. Coast Highway,
Newport Beach, 949-650-6505, www.arestaurantnb.com.

THE CROW BAR AND KITCHEN
Chef Scott Brandon deserves to crow about his burgers—any self-respecting gastropub should have a kickass version. His menu boasts three. The Classic and the Crow Burger (both about $10) start with a blend of Angus and Prime cuts, ground daily. The resulting quarter-pound patties pack a lot of juicy steak flavor that stands up well to additions such as Taleggio cheese, gorgonzola, fresh arugula, and roasted-tomato marmalade. Imported Wagyu beef is the star of the top-drawer option ($29), which isn’t quite so tricked out. It’s spendy, but free if you order a bottle of Screaming Eagle ($2,995).
2325 E. Coast Highway,
Corona del Mar, 949-675-0070, www.crowbarcdm.com.

BAMBU RESTAURANT
The Kobe Burger ($17) at Bambu makes a perfect escape from dull hotel fare. Served at lunch or as a special request for dinner, it’s grilled to order and placed on a big sesame-seed bun. The 100 percent Snake River Farms Kobe beef gives it a steak-like flavor. The meat is covered in melted cheddar, but also can be ordered with blue or Swiss, plus add-ons: bacon, avocado, mushrooms, or grilled onions. Don’t even think about skipping the sweet, fresh red onions that come with it.
Fairmont Newport Beach
Hotel, 4500 MacArthur Blvd., Newport Beach, 949-476-2001, www.bambunewportbeach.com.

MEMPHIS SOUL CAFÉ & BAR
Biting into the Soul Burger ($11) at Memphis is a satisfying experience that starts with a grilled, 8-ounce Angus burger. Then the flavors of three ingredients kick in: mild pepper jack cheese, smoky chipotle aioli, and the sweet house barbecue sauce. It’s served with onion, tomato, and pickle, and is available as a combo, with crispy shoestring fries, or the house salad with candied pecans, avocado, and jicama tossed with a tangy sherry vinaigrette.
2920 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-432-7685;
The Santora Building, Artists Village,
201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, 714-564-1064, www.memphiscafe.com.

BLACK BULL CHOP HOUSE
At this glorified cow palace with a mechanical bull and a raging bar scene, burgers can upstage the steak. The Bullseye Burger ($11) brings together Western favorites with its sweet Jack Daniels barbecue sauce, thick, crunchy bacon, mellow cheddar, and crispy, thinly battered onion rings. The crunch on this sandwich is fantastic against the soft sesame-seed bun. The patty is 10 ounces of sirloin, but next time, we’re going to ask if they’ll sub the juicier 8-ounce Kobe burger ($14 and comes with garden-variety toppings), even if we have to pay extra.
300 Pacific Coast Highway #112, Huntington Beach, 714-969-6700, www.blackbullchophouse.com.

MESA
At this gourmet restaurant that feels like a lounge there is absolutely no shame in ordering a burger. As with all its meats, the Mesa Burger ($14), an 8-ounce patty of Niman Ranch beef, will never be overcooked. Order it medium rare so it’s seared on the outside, light ruby in the center. Smothered in Gruyere and caramelized onions, the patty is tucked into a soft, slightly sweet brioche bun and served with house-made aioli and irresistible Mesa frites—crisp, thin fries with aromatic fried fresh herbs: parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme.
725 Baker St., Costa Mesa, 714-557-6700.

MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE
Fussy doesn’t fly here—all you get is a first-class, uncomplicated burger ($14) that weighs in at a monstrous 12 ounces. Coarsely ground, aged USDA Prime sirloin delivers imposing beefiness while the usual suspects—mushrooms, bacon, and cheese—are called in as you see fit. Fries are included, of course. VIP service in clubby digs doesn’t hurt, either. Only on the lunch menu and only at the Santa Ana location.
South Coast Plaza Village, 1641 W. Sunflower ave., Santa Ana, 714-444-4834, www.mortons.com.

PARK AVE.
Stanton’s Googie landmark is a sleeper for top-quality American eats, so of course, chef David Slay’s lavish Angus burgers ($9 to $10) don’t disappoint. So much is made from scratch: buns, chips, condiments, even the aromatic butters with home-grown herbs. We love the Cracked Pepper Burger, basted in pepper butter and topped with pepper jack cheese. The Horseradish Burger is a close second, with grilled sweet onion, tangy Havarti cheese, and a modest presence of horseradish. Our hearts belong to those house-made potato chips that accompany, but the super-fresh slaw is a good option for the virtuous. Served lunchtime only.
11200 Beach Blvd., Stanton, 714-901-4400, www.parkavedining.com.

RESTAURANT 162'
Those who like their burgers lean will love the completely nongreasy taste of this 8-ounce sirloin patty ($16). It’s presented open-face, with three leaves of Romaine standing straight as soldiers alongside the Asiago cheese bun, and arrives with its own tiny bottles of ketchup and mustard. Best of all, it’s sided with the hotel’s herb fries or—by special request—its famous truffle fries. They’re fried in truffle oil and sprinkled with truffle salt, served with a luxurious truffle mayo that also tastes great spooned over that virtuous burger.
The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Dana Point, 949-240-2000, www.ritzcarlton.com.

SALT CREEK GRILLE
Excellent American Kobe beef and lots of it (10-ounces) is the killer choice at Dana Point’s dapper mesquite grillery. A gooey wedge of Humbolt Fog cheese adds pizzazz, peppery arugula supplies spunk, and the glistening brioche bun doesn’t let those luscious juices get away. Take it over the top with slices of applewood-smoked bacon, the way executive chef Scott Floyd likes his. A heap of top-notch shoestring garlic fries comes with, and, at $19 for the whole package, it’s one of the better deals on the menu.
32892 Pacific Coast Highway, Dana Point, 949-661-7799, www.saltcreekgrille.com.

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Best Basic Burgers

It’s not always about fancy ingredients. Sometimes, you just want a classic hamburger with nothing more than special sauce, American cheese, and grilled onions. Here are six of the best Orange County has to offer. by Anne Valdespino

BREA’S BEST BURGERS
Half the fun is pulling into this roadside stand that looks like a Food Network special waiting to happen. The 55-year-old Googie-style building, a shoebox with Formica tables, is a nostalgic backdrop for quarter-pound charbroiled burgers with house-made thousand-island dressing, and fresh or sweet grilled onions ($4.70). The patties come on toasted sesame-seed buns, with pickle, tomato, and cheese. Ask for avocado and they pile on big, creamy slices. Crisp, thick-cut bacon adds a whole new punch.
707 S. Brea Blvd., Brea, 714-990-2615.

EL COMEDOR
The ’70s surroundings are so time warpy it’s almost scary—but stick around for the chili cheeseburger ($3.95). While most “chili sizes” use a gravy-like sauce that tastes like it came from a can, this place uses the real thing. The quarter-pound burger is charbroiled, and the tangy ground-beef chili is generously spooned on the top and bottom buns, along with finely chopped fresh onions, pickle, tomato, and lettuce.
418 N. Bristol St., Santa Ana, 714-953-5424.

THE COUNTER
At this new Woodbury joint, you can order one of its singular creations. Carne asada burger with whipped avocado sauce, anyone? Or build your own by checking off boxes on the paper menus. We stacked up a Tex-Mex special with one-third pound Angus burger, Tillamook cheddar, jalapeños, chili, and avocado ($10.50). The patty is not overgrilled, the cheddar coats it entirely, and the jalapeños are fiery. Warning: Chili is served on the side, taking the fun out of making a mess.
6416 Irvine Blvd., Irvine, 949-336-7272, www.thecounter burger.com.

HUSKY BOY BURGERS
Forget the pastrami burger. Ask for the big, half-pound Kobe with Ortega chilis and cheese, lovingly tucked into a fluffy sesame bun. It’s wrapped in paper and filled with sliced onion, tomato, and pickle. The meat is so fatty and filling you’ll kick yourself for ordering that banana split, knowing you’ll never finish it.
802 N. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, 949-497-9605.

KNOWLWOOD
Newsroom wags at The Orange County Register call the Santa Ana location of this local chain O.C.’s slowest fast-food joint. But they still flock here for the burgers. The tastiest is the fajita burger ($4.99), loaded with jack cheese and grilled red and green peppers, or Ortega chilies. There’s sweetness from the caramelized grilled onions and the creamy mustard sauce. Ask for the tender turkey-patty version.
5665 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim Hills, 714-779-2501; 150 S. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton, 714-879-7552; 14952 Sand Canyon Ave., Irvine, 949-857-8927; 2107 E. 17th St., Santa Ana, 714-541-0555; 28061 Greenfield Drive, Laguna Niguel, 949-831-1593, www.knowlwoodrestaurants.com.

TK BURGERS
The little shack next to Dairy Queen, across from the Huntington Beach Pier, fills with surfers at noon, all in line for a classic burger ($3.79) made of low-rent but incredibly fresh ingredients: slightly gristly quarter-pound patties that are never frozen, soft buns custom made for the store, oozing slices of American cheese that coat the burger and the roof of your mouth. Try the salad, with crisp iceberg lettuce and a snappy Italian dressing.
615 19th St., Costa Mesa, 949-548-2858; 2966 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-662-2572; 110 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, 714-960-3238; 2119 W. Balboa Blvd., Newport Beach, 949-673-3438, www.tkburgers.com.

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The Skinny on Kobe Beef

Kobe beef has gone from foodie exotica to Flavor of the Month to the burger menus at Ruby’s and The Cheesecake Factory. But what exactly is Kobe beef? And if it’s so exotic and expensive, why is it popping up at chain restaurants?

In Japan’s Hyogo Prefecture (Kobe is its capital), they pamper Wagyu-breed cattle with massages and a rich diet of grasses and grains. During the sultry summer, they even feed them beer to stimulate their appetites. All this indulgence creates highly marbled flesh with complex flavor and melting tenderness. Prices start at $100 per pound (plus $30 shipping, to your kitchen).

So how can Ruby’s charge $8.99 for three Kobe sliders? They’re made with American Kobe beef, which varies widely in its adherence to Japanese traditions and rigid standards. Snake River Farms and KBA are two American Kobe producers most chefs regard highly. But if it’s not noted on the menu, you’ll have to ask the server, who’ll have to ask the chef.

And as long as you’re interrogating, it also makes sense to ask about the grade and mix. Japanese Kobe far exceeds USDA Prime, so the Japanese use their own grading system. American Kobe? The grade varies by producer. Is the patty 100 percent or a blend? And blended with what? Nailing down the unknowns is enough to kill your appetite, so it’s probably best not to go there. Most likely, a menu’s $15 Kobe burger isn’t the Japanese Kobe beef of legend, just a juicy rendition gussied up by good marketing.

Given all the murkiness surrounding the Kobe label, stick with a kitchen you trust, and never, ever disgrace a classy mound of ground beef by requesting it well-done. —Gretchen Kurz