Taste of Orange County

Bennett Lane first came to my attention while browsing through the cabernet aisle at Hi-Time Wine Cellars for a gift bottle. This one was Maximus, a red table wine then priced at $25, now $35 and still a good value. A Catholic school survivor, my eyes are always drawn to Latin. I bit and was so curious about its content that I decided to gift the bottle to myself. I wasn’t sorry. A great value wine, it delivered with sturdy fruit and ample tannins.

This weekend I decided to sample the uptown versions from Bennett Lane. 

Notes: 

2006 Bennett Lane Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) Both these wines need to be decanted because there are loads of lees in the pour. I checked to see if they were corked and allowed them to breathe for 45 minutes. This one tasted great right out of the gate. The same bold fruit flavors of Maximus came through without any jamminess. The classic cassis is there along with plum and blackberry. This blend has 94 percent cabernet sauvignon, 4 percent petite verdot and 2 percent malbec. The malbec seems to prop up the juicier fruits and they taste a bit more mature than they might without it. Pair with red meats and sharp cheeses; it’s more appropriate for rib eye and New York steaks than prime rib and filet, Oregonzola cheese rather than traditional Italian dolce gorgonzola.

2006 Bennett Lane Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($95). Begs to be decanted if you’re opening it now. Get some air on this one and you’ll be rewarded. Neither of these tend toward the super soft and supple, like Napa cabs such as Cakebread and Caymus. Instead, Bennett Lane wines are masculine and forthright. There’s more complexity and structure in this bottle as well as a longer finish. It’s distinctly cedar and tobacco. But there’s such good fruit on it you could even serve it with hefty barbecued meats. This powerful wine would be a real husband pleaser—after dinner he can finish it with a good cigar.—Anne Valdespino

He reminded me that you don’t have to wait for a special occasion to enjoy port. I’ve always found that unlike really complex sauternes and sherries, which sometimes have mineral notes so pronounced they’re practically medicinal, the profound fruit flavors of Douro Valley wines are much more approachable, especially to those of us accustomed to California fruit bombs. We sipped and imagined pairing these lovelies with everything from barbecue to Mexican mole.

Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Ruby Port. ($18.98 at Hi-Time Wine Cellars) Gorgeous in color with deep, dark fruit flavors. Well integrated and luscious. An ideal match with my favorite blue cheese of the moment: Roaring Forties from King Island, Australia.

Dow’s 2004 Late Bottled Vintage. ($19.99 at Bev Mo) Aged up to six years, aromatic withstrong notes of violet. It has all the fruit of a ruby but with more intensity, soft tannins and a slight backbeat of pepper. I imagined Rick Bayless’ pumpkinseed mole (pipián rojo) slathered on duck or dark meat turkey with this one. Roasted root vegetables, butternut squash soup or pumpkin flan would do nicely too.

Graham’s 20 Years Old Aged Tawny. ($49.98 at Hi-Time Wine Cellars) Superb nutty flavor and butterscotch finish. Don’t wait for sticky toffee pudding season. Open a bottle to enjoy this weekend with handfuls of caramel popcorn studded with peanuts and almonds. Could also make any of those crazy cheeseballs that come rolling onto buffet tables this time of year infinitely more palatable. Tasting tip: Dominic says keep it in your fridge. Yes, a bit of chill tamps down the alcohol.

—AV