Published October 2009

I have a soft spot for charming mom-and-pop shops such as Black Sheep Bistro. I often see chef-owner Rick Bouffard tending the herbs growing in front of his homey Tustin restaurant. I’ve spied him prowling the farmers market that springs up every Wednesday on the empty lot next door. When I call for reservations, it’s always his kind, soft-spoken wife, Diana, who answers.

Now turning 20 years old, Black Sheep is the reigning bistro in Old Town Tustin. Indie eateries come and go in this engaging neighborhood, but Black Sheep perseveres because the Bouffards remain proud
and excited to share the Catalan cuisine of Spain’s Mediterranean coast.

During the last two decades, the menu has evolved to reflect the couple’s ongoing romance with Spain and, to some extent, France. They long ago adopted the European custom of closing shop for weeks on end in the summer—the better to travel and develop new recipes. It’s a hard-won respite many American diners and restaurateurs don’t understand (“What? Closed for a month?”) though it benefits both proprietor and customer. Fideos, or Spanish pasta combos, are a recent addition to the menu and one that Rick directly attributes to his last visit to Spain.

Black Sheep’s menu isn’t vast, but it’s unique and may baffle first-timers, so it’s fortunate that young waiters cheerfully explain anything mysterious or unfamiliar, such as the fideos, or la rouille, a sauce similar to the base in bouillabaisse. If a query is particularly tricky, Rick quickly appears with an enthusiastic answer.

Appetizers ($6 to $15) are a hearty bunch, but few are light-eating, so sharing is a smart approach. I can’t stay away from the cantimpalitos—spicy little sausages  surrounding a bed of garlic mashed potatoes. Sweet dates filled with chorizo-like sobrasada wrapped in ham are fierce flavor bombs.

Entrées ($24 to $44) include a choice of two salads. The cool, crisp Caesar with sheep’s milk Romano is the better option, mainly because the salad with mixed greens is overwhelmed by too much vinaigrette. Still, I wish the Caesar’s bland croutons tasted house-made, though they’re easy to flick aside. With few exceptions, the lamb and the paella dishes are among the strongest entrées. Lamb fans can’t go wrong with the classic baby New Zealand rack baked with two mustards and herbs de Provençe. But the more creative variations warrant attention, too.  Grilled boneless lamb loin has a tasty crust of cracked black pepper that adds zest and texture to the slices of mellow meat; garlicky aioli brings a piquant note to the party.

Borrego-Borrego-Borrego, which is lamb three ways, is an almost-over-the-top creation. The centerpiece is a whole baked onion brimming with a red wine lamb-and-vegetable stew topped with sliced grilled loin and surrounded by those delicious baby lamb chops. Less intense is the Four Seasons lamb chops: four trim chops each resting atop a different sauce—garlic aioli, tarragon aioli, a saffron-tinged rouille, and a tomato Provençal sauce.

Paella ($30 to $35) is another Black Sheep specialty, and regulars look forward to Wednesday “paella on the patio” dinners, which usually start in May. The rest of the week there’s a two-person minimum for the dish, which is prepared to order and served in a petite shallow iron pan. On one visit, Oveja Negra is the specialty and the sizzling mound of black Valencia rice arrives wafting heady aromas of peppers, seafood, and semicured chorizo. It’s ringed with inky mussels and looks almost too pretty to eat. As usual, when prepared on this small scale, there isn’t enough of the flavor-rich bottom crust, the prized socarrat. But with some notice, the kitchen will concoct custom-orders that feed “two to 50.” More paella, more socarrat.

In November, Bouffard is switching out Wednesday paella for heavier, soothing, peasant fare such as cassoulet, coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon, ragus, and daubes. The Bouffards clearly revel in sharing the countrified side of cuisine, even if some of their pricing is decidedly upscale.

The carpeted pastel dining room may feel a bit prim and dated, but it’s serene and well-suited to conversation. When weather permits, the patio overlooking quiet, tree-lined El Camino Real is my pick.

When it’s time to order dessert, the five-cheese plate for three ($24), loaded with dried fruits and nuts, easily outshines the unexciting profiteroles or heavy chocolate gâteau—especially if there’s wine left in your bottle to enjoy with it.

That last pour is the perfect opportunity to toast Mr.-and-Mrs. restaurants such as Black Sheep Bistro. Here’s hoping the jittery economy doesn’t dim this endearing Catalan veteran that deliciously melds diner, meal, and kitchen into one heartfelt experience.

Best dishes
Paella, lamb three ways, mussels salchichón, cheese plate.
Ambience
Cozy, homey dining room, plus a roomy patio overlooking the leafy heart of Old Town.
Deals
Weekly specials such as tapas, unique tacos, seasonal one-pot meals—all about $15. Sign up for e-mail notices of upcoming deals.
Tip
Shop the deli to the right of the entrance for European wines, oils, sausages, and more.

Black Sheep Bistro
303 El Camino Real
Tustin
714-544-6060
www.blacksheepbistro.com

Gretchen Kurz is an Orange Coast contributing editor.